Views Through My Viewfinder

Dog Day Afternoons

2011-06-30T14:11:00.000-07:00

Rusty Resting

Can We All Just Rest Now? Yes, Claire, We Can!

Ear Up and Fast Asleep With Wolfie

Close-up Photography Week Four

2011-06-30T12:43:00.000-07:00

Last Rainfall Of The Year

Evergreen Tears

Venetian Glass I

Venetian Glass II

Venetian Mask

Close- up Photography: Week Three: Alameda Marina, Alameda, CA

2011-06-25T14:07:00.000-07:00

Blue Braid

Reflections at Cocktail Hour

Past Its Prime

Ropes at Sea? The appearance of whale tails in the distance is, in reality, peeling paint on the dock!

Red, White, and Blue

Twister

Twizzler

Close-up Photography Class: Week Two

2011-06-16T16:57:00.000-07:00

Laundry Day

Art at Home Depot

Close-up Photography Class: Week One

2011-06-12T18:37:00.000-07:00

Wishes of Travels to Be

Waterfall in Backyard Pool

Waiting for the Landscapers

Crystal Waters

Crystal Water's Reflection

Duck-Duck-Goose

2011-06-12T16:47:00.000-07:00

Blackhawk Afternoon

Shoe Shopping at Blackhawk

Carmel Mission : Carmel, California May 2011

2011-05-24T13:53:00.000-07:00

A Rose Is A Rose Is a Rose!

2011-05-08T14:00:00.000-07:00

Yellowstone in Winter

2011-04-02T09:25:00.000-07:00

This February, I traveled with Natural Habitat Adventures for a week long journey from Bozeman, Montana to Jackson Hole, Wyoming viewing the winter vistas of Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. It was an amazing adventure I shared with fourteen other travelers and my outstanding guides, Jared and Colin. Seeing our nation's first and grandest national park shrouded in snow and having the privilege to share this special place with its wildlife is an adventure I will never forget. The beauty and the majesty of Yellowstone often matched Antarctica's pristine panoramas and being able to observe wildlife in its natural state reminded me of my time in the rookeries of Antarctica. While the goal of this trip was to observe the wolves who have been reinstated in Yellowstone, our experience was varied in terms of wildlife, landscape, and nature. My adventure culminated in Jackson Hole with an Iditarod ride into the mountains. As you can imagine, the pictures of my team of dogs are my favorite, and it took all my will power to not return home with more additions to our pack.

A Winter Wonderland

2011-04-01T09:00:00.000-07:00

Yellowstone Landscapes

2011-03-31T09:53:00.000-07:00

Thermal Yellowstone

2011-03-30T10:07:00.000-07:00

While Yellowstone was bathed in white, it was also still erupting with thermal activity as this area was once an active volcano. The winter air magnified these geological wonders and created a world of both hot and cold.

2011-03-29T10:24:00.000-07:00

Travertine

Old Faithful

Our Guide, Colin

Our Guide, Jared

Yellowstone Through My Macro Lens

2011-03-28T10:37:00.000-07:00

Traveling to the Wildlife

2011-03-27T10:50:00.000-07:00

Winter Wildlife in Yellowstone

2011-03-26T11:04:00.000-07:00

Martin

Bison

2011-03-25T10:00:00.000-07:00

Coyote

2011-03-24T11:32:00.000-07:00

Elk

2011-03-23T11:30:00.000-07:00

Bald Eagle

2011-03-20T11:36:00.000-07:00

Bighorn Sheep

2011-03-19T11:51:00.000-07:00

Pronghorn Antelope

2011-03-18T11:48:00.000-07:00

Trumpeter Swans

2011-03-17T11:54:00.000-07:00

Red Fox

2011-03-17T11:53:00.000-07:00

Wolves in Yellowstone

2011-03-16T12:39:00.000-07:00

Setting up the scopes to view the Lamar Valley Pack

Elk Reserve in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

2011-03-15T11:55:00.000-07:00

Our Guides at the Elk Reserve

2011-03-14T12:02:00.000-07:00

Iditarod Dog Sledding

2011-03-13T12:04:00.000-07:00

Mike our Team Driver

Dashing Through the Snow

2011-03-12T12:10:00.000-08:00

Our Team Members

2011-03-11T12:17:00.000-08:00

Santa Fe Photography Workshop

2010-10-08T20:34:00.000-07:00

Eaves Movie Ranch

Balloon Feista Dawn Patrol

2010-10-07T18:52:00.000-07:00

Wednesday morning we were all up and on the shuttle bus headed for Albuquerque and the Balloon Fiesta. We arrived in the dark and photographed for hours as we witnessed over 500 balloons launched skyward.

Georgia O'Keeffe Ranch

2010-10-06T17:14:00.000-07:00

Santa Fe Workshop: Sense of Place

2010-10-05T10:37:00.000-07:00

Our last assignment was to take one photograph that captured a sense of place representing our experience in Santa Fe. I knew immediately where I would find my image. On Monday night of our photographic week, I had attended the 5:30 mass at St. Francis Basilica celebrating the feast day of St. Francis of Assisi. Photographer's learn that early morning and late afternoon provide the best light and so during mass nature put on an amazing technicolor light show through the basilica's stained glass windows. Minute by minute the colors and hues changed creating an ongoing kaleidoscope. Much of what we learned during our photographic journey was about the importance of capturing the light and using light to create our art. Where better to go for my sense of place than to the source of all light.

The Bears of Katmai

2010-09-06T16:00:00.000-07:00

For those who are visiting my journal via the National Geographic Antarctica Expedition site, please continue on to previous posts to share my travels to Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands. I hope, however, you will take a moment to enjoy my photographs from my recent trip to Alaska and the Katmai Peninsula . For friends and family- Yes, I did it again. Venturing off on my own to experience the wonders of wildlife and the chance to turn my camera lens onto all creatures- great and small. And these were definitely not small creatures!

While we enjoyed many experiences on our trip to Alaska, I knew I would leave disappointed and disheartened had I not seen the bears of Katmai. No one else in my group, however, shared this desire, so off I went. Having done my assigned reading on " How to Behave when Meeting a Bear" as well as having been weighed in for the flight ( more scary to me than facing a bear), I left early one morning, toilet paper and plastic baggie in backpack ( what one takes to Katmai- one brings back from Katmai) intent on spending the day with the brown bears.

2010-09-05T19:49:00.000-07:00

At 8:00 AM we met for our briefing and review of information as to what protocols we should follow on our trip. From our first instruction, I began learning much about the nature and habits of bears. Bears are actually very solitary creatures and will confront humans, in most cases, only when they are taken by surprise. In fact, bears don't even seek out other bears' company. The brown bears of Katmai have been protected from human contact to the degree that they do not associate humans with food, and so will most likely choose to ignore us. At this time of year, they would be fishing for salmon, and since they need to gain 50% of their body weight during the summer months, in preparation to begin denning in October, they would most likely be concentrating on the river and its resources rather than us. We were instructed we would walk towards the river in a very small and tight pod, talking in "human voices" and proceed to where we would take our seat on the banks of the river for about four hours. The less strung out our group- the less likely the bears would be to notice us. In some sense, we were just a moving rock that made some strange sounds. But remember, animals are not always predictable, so we were schooled on what we should do in case of a chance encounter. Should we confront a bear too closely, we were to stand our ground, waving our hands above our head ( this would help increase our size- and to bears- size matters). We should talk in a normal voice and basically say, " Hello bear, how is your day going?" as we slowly back away. No, I am not kidding. The best thing to do when you meet a bear is to be as human as possible. Most of the time, the bear will sense you are some foreign species of little value or importance to him or her and lose interest. If the bear stands up on its hind legs- worry not- this is not an attack. It is a sign of curiosity and interest. Should the bear approach in a menacing manner and confront you, drop to the ground, curl up in a fetal position and play dead. Play dead for a long time, so that if the bear walks away- but then glances back, you will still be motionless. Never ever run from a bear as they can top speeds of 35 miles per hour and running away will only trigger their prey instincts. Never scream or use a high pitched voice as this will make you seem more animal like- again setting off their prey instinct. And should this all fail and a bear actually begin to attack- then and only then- fight with all your might.

With all that said, we donned our hip waders, as part of our landing would be wet, and boarded the two awaiting deHavilland Otters and began our one and a half hour flight to Katmai National Park and Reserve. After landing in Geographic Harbor, we transferred to a skiff and then waded to shore. We immediately began seeing bears who were down on the beach using their huge paws to dig clams. We began our slow- pod like- walk, talking and marveling all along the way. Twenty relative strangers walking in unison and already amazed at the wonders around us. After 1/4 mile we reached the river banks and were told to quickly spread out and find a spot.We had been given, as we left the skiff, small canvas backed ground seats that would support our backs for the many hours we photographed the bears. We were instructed to keep our backpacks, etc behind us. Here we would sit for the next hours and marvel as these great creatures went about the business of preparing for the winter months. These photographs were taken with my 100- 300mm zoom lens, but there were a number of occasions when the bears walked too close for the lens to focus. On one occurrence, a sow and her cub passed no more than four feet in front of me.

2010-09-04T10:29:00.000-07:00

One of the largest populations of brown bears in the world is in Katmai National Park, numbering over 3000 bears. The area is rich in salmon and 250 times higher in bear population than in other areas where bears are unable to hunt salmon. We photographed for hours as bears came in search of food. They came from all angles. You would be photographing a number of bears to the left, only to find more coming from the right and often others coming from behind. The pattern was always the same. Fur up, ears up, eyes scanning, noses smelling, listening, watching, feeling, sensing. They would advance or charge downstream, herding the salmon in front, sight one, pounce with their massive paws, then plunge head down into the water and come up with a salmon secured in its mouth . Sometimes. Occasionally, they came up- empty mouthed- only to stand there looking about, a bit disappointed and a little confused. Frequently, they stood on their hind legs to get a higher view of the activity in the water. If they snared a salmon, it was carried to shore where it was secured by huge paws and shredded- top to bottom. At the beginning of the season, when the salmon is very plentiful, the bears will often consume only the richest parts, the caviar and brain, leaving the rest. As this was the end of the salmon season, the bears we observed ate most of the fish. If it was a sow who caught the salmon, she ate first. The future of her cubs depends on her being able to safeguard them. After that came the cubs and then the rest belongs to the gulls. The seagulls are always near the bears. Hovering over, under, and next to the bears. Waiting patiently for any scraps, they are nature's waste management system . Sometimes the bears sauntered into the river, sometimes they plunged. I set my shutter to high speed in an effort to capture 400 to 600 pounds of focused, forward motion.

2010-09-03T20:21:00.000-07:00

During our hours onshore, we witnessed only female bears. Perhaps after we left, the larger male bears made an appearance. During the day, bear tempers would flare. Once, when another female came too close to one sow's cub, mom turned and chased her while roaring a warning. The offending female quickly retreated. Protecting one's offspring is a powerful instinct and is the only time a bear will engage in a fight with a bear that is larger or more dominant. We also witnessed what seemed to be a fishing territorial dispute between one bear of brown coloring and another female of a much darker brown In this instance, there was much growling, posturing, and finally what looked like mild wrestling. After a minute or so, the noise and brawling ceased and the two bears turned away from one another, each looking in the opposite direction. Then the lighter bear wandered off, and the dark brown bear stood up on her hind legs and looked around to get a sense once again of the fishing prospects.

2010-09-02T11:03:00.000-07:00

2010-09-01T13:22:00.000-07:00

The coexistence of the bears and the seagulls was intriguing in that nature has instilled so decidedly in bears the notion that salmon are tasty and seagulls, not so much. As I followed the bear as she fervently fished, I questioned, " Why not just go poultry?" But no, the bears selected their seafood entrees and the seagulls waited resignedly. I did speak with a woman in Denali who had just seen the bears on Kodiak, and she observed one bear who did eventually grow annoyed with a seagull and with one slap of a paw- the problem was eliminated.

2010-08-31T20:51:00.000-07:00

And then there were the cubs. The cubs we observed were all about one and a half years old. A few sows had two cubs and one had three, but she stayed far up on the river. Cubs will stay with their mother until about age three, sometimes even four. Most of the cubs stayed very close to mom; some, however, were a bit braver and wandered a bit farther off. But all kept mom in sight, as she is their source of survival, and everything they will learn of the world, they will learn from her.
Their playfulness and curiosity were joy and innocence in motion.

2010-08-30T21:14:00.000-07:00

A yearling peeks from behind mom while another seems to have a secret to share.

2010-08-29T14:52:00.000-07:00

Around 3:30 we began packing away our cameras and equipment to embark on our journey home. The day was waning, and although we had enjoyed intermittent periods of sun and warmth, the clouds were returning and it began to gently rain. The bears seemed to grow tired also as many reclined on the spit to rest for a bit. We walked back slowly- once again in our pod- and boarded the plane for the flight home. Everyone was eerily quiet and only occasionally would one say to another, " That was amazing, - unbelievable- I never expected anything like that-Wow." The return flight quickly passed as we gazed out over the emerald green and blue wilderness of Katmai and Kodiak, and all too soon we were back to civilization.

I thought I could never mirror the experiences I had in Antarctica, but this came close. I am so privileged and fortunate to have spent a day in such close proximity to such magnificent creatures. This, too, was a life changing event. Native Alaskan tribes have always had great respect for the bear, harvesting them only when necessary for survival. Killing a bear is done with great tradition and ritual and rite- and never for sport or trophy. So it was with great sadness that I stood in Ted Stevens International Airport checking in for our return flight surrounded by taxidermied brown and polar bears imprisoned for all time in glass cages. Doomed for ages to mark travelers departing on planes and claiming baggage, they stared out at me, shadows now of their once majestic selves.

2010-08-28T16:06:00.000-07:00

Since returning home, I have been reading voraciously about the bear and with each reading gain greater respect and knowledge of these great creatures. My favorite books are by Matthias Breiter: The Bears of Katmai , Bears: A Year in the Life, and Wild Alaska. He is a gifted photographer, writer, and a fountainhead of knowledge on bears. In his book The Bears of Katmai he quotes:

" What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts were gone, man would die from a great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts, soon happens to man. All things are connected."

- Sealth, Chief of the Duwamish, Suquamish, and allied Indian tribes in a letter to President Franklin Pierce in 1854 (13).

It is this awareness and understanding I took with me from Katmai. We are- all connected.

I would also like to thank Bald Mountain Air and especially Jeanne and, my guide, Gary Porter for taking such great care of me on this adventure and for showing me this pristine place on the planet.

Soon the Antarctic summer will begin, and I will envision the penguins I met last year returning to their rookeries and nests, as will I also this winter be thinking about the whereabouts and hibernation of my brown bears.

Welcome to Antarctica

2009-12-14T19:04:00.000-08:00

Welcome to my journal in which I have attempted to chronicle my twenty-five day expedition with National Geographic to Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falklands. For almost a month, the Explorer was my home away from home. She took me to worlds I did not know existed, and her expedition leaders and staff taught me not only about the wealth of wildlife that abounds here; they also instilled in me a lifelong awareness of how important it is that we protect this, our planet's last wilderness . Of the 5,000 photographs I took on this trip, this is my favorite. It shows one of my beloved chinstrap penguins standing before my second home. I will forever be grateful to National Geographic and Lindblad Expeditions for opening the vastness of this world to me. Thanks also to all my fellow travelers who befriended me on this trip. Many of you took me under your more experienced travel wings and showed me the ropes, literally. It was fun sharing zodiacs, meals, and even some rough seas with you.

I hope you enjoy this journey; and, just think, you can travel without muck boots, waterproof pants, parkas, etc. These entries actually work backwards. If you want to start at the beginning in the cold and ice, scroll to the bottom and work upwards, but it doesn't really matter which way you take the trip. The end is just as spectacular as the beginning. Just enjoy- it was the trip of my lifetime, and I am happy to take you along with me.

Maureen Reschke

New Island: The Falklands

2009-12-14T18:36:00.000-08:00

The last stop on our journey turned out to be spectacular in every way. Like the saying goes, they saved the best for the last. After a mile walk across the island, we came into a cove filled with albatross, rockhoppers and blue-eyed shags. It was a cacaphony of sounds, abundant with wildlife and dazzling the eyes as the sunlit waves crashed against the rocks.. National Geographic photographer, Flip Nicklin had more fun than anyone shooting the variety of wildlife that presented itself. It was almost as if they knew he was a famous photographer as one by one each species came to pose for his expert eye. Sadly, it was eventually time to go and my last picture is of the Explorer sitting in the harbor waiting to take me home.

New Island: The Falklands

2009-12-14T18:35:00.000-08:00

Our last stop was just like they say," They saved the best for last". After walking a mile across New Island, we could hear the sounds of waves crashing against the rocks. We arrived at a high cliff filled with albatross, rockhoppers, and the most magnificent blue-eyed shags. It was a cacophony of sound and color. National Geographic photographer, Flip Nicklin, seemed to enjoy it all the most, as species after species came to pose for his camera. It was as if they knew he was famous for capturing wildlife at its best and were saying,
" Look how beautiful I am. Put me in your magazine!" It was difficult to leave this amazing haven of nature, and as I walked back for a last zodiac ride, I caught one last picture of the Explorer before we began our voyage home.

Carcass Island: The Falklands

2009-12-14T16:55:00.000-08:00

Carcass Island is a privately owned island in the Falklands. The McGill family graciously invited us to explore their beautiful island where sheep sheering was taking place. We were even invited into the house for a grand tea. There were numerous birds
( the Blackish Oystercatcher and the greater Upland Goose). It seemed like a good time to try out my macro lens, and so I focused on some colorful sea shells and some flowers which seemed rare after the past twenty three days.

Saunders Island: The Falklands and a Desert Storm

2009-12-14T16:26:00.000-08:00

The winds that did not arrive at Steeple Jason Island arrived in the afternoon at Saunders Island. The gusts whipped up the sands, and one felt as if they were in Arabia and not just north of Antarctica. You could hear the sand pitting against your parka and then came the sleet and rain. Most everyone headed to the zodiacs to get back to the ship for tea time, but up in the sky I noticed some blue patches. Having done a bit of sailing, I thought there was a chance for some clearing. I chose to remain and I am so glad I did. I was able to spend the rest of the day at this beautiful spot and even meet some young new chicks ( which I write about in the next section). The penguins on this island were varied. There were Magellanic( with the black and white around the eyes) the gentoo ( with the orange beaks) and the rockhoppers ( with the little crested tufts around the head). The rockhoppers nest in the rocks and do literally hop rather than waddle.

Saunders Island: The Falklands: Baby Gentoos

2009-12-14T15:47:00.000-08:00

Having decided to weather the weather, I went over the hill and into a blustering wind to find a colony of gentoo penguins, some of which had just hatched little chicks. It took more than an hour of lying flat on my stomach, hands freezing, nose running to get these few shots. Patiently, I pointed my zoom lens and took any opportunity to get a picture of a little head or maybe two. The little chicks wanted no more of the cold, windy air than did I, but I persevered; not being sure I would ever be able to return to this area during a nativity season. It was amazing to watch these moms or dads watching over these small creatures. Males and females share incubating and chick-rearing duties in the penguin world. For the first twenty five days of their lives, these little ones will be closely guarded by one of the parents while the other goes out to sea to feed. Waiting patiently always, however, are the skua, as was this one, watching for one opportune moment to snatch an egg or chick. The life of a penguin in not easy. I took the last zodiac back that day. It was 7:00 PM; I was exhausted, and yet I had never felt more energized and alive. Another amazing day had ended.

Steeple Jason and the Black- Browed Albatross

2009-12-14T13:49:00.000-08:00

Rustling up the courage to tackle a difficult zodiac landing on wet and jagged rocks =
$ 100.00.

Burning off a breakfast of French toast and bacon with a two mile uphill hike= $1000.00

Spending the morning with 157,000 nesting Albatross= PRICELESS!

Steeple Jason: The Falklands

2009-12-14T12:36:00.000-08:00

On the morning of December 5th, we received our daily wake up call at 7:00 AM informing us that we would

be making a landing at Steeple Jason. We were informed this might not be a landing for all passengers as it required stepping out of the zodiacs onto wet and jagged rocks, and then make a long hike up and over a hill, and that there then might be 40+ wind gusts- but if we did- we would witness a colony of over 157,000 nesting black-browed albatross. I decided to make the landing. As we came over the the hill, we could hear the sounds of thousands of albatross and then the ocean came into view. The winds died, the sun came out, and we all made our way down a cliff, negotiating through tussock taller than ourselves. It was like walking through an English garden maze. When I came to the clearing, I found myself standing next to Ralph Lee Hopkins, one of the National Geographic photographers on board the Explorer. He was literally calling the shots. " Incoming- Incoming- Shoot! Shoot! Shoot!" It was like a video arcade game. " Click-click- click....... hundreds of shutters closing. Four hundred photographs later, I managed to get about ten that are pretty good. I am learning that in the world of wildlife photography- that is about what to expect. Although, I loved and missed the ice, this was perhaps the most exciting landing of the trip. I will never forget the sheer beauty of the sea and the wonders of the wildlife nesting on its shores.

Stanley, The Falklands

2009-12-14T11:31:00.000-08:00

Be careful what you wish for! When we started our journey and experienced Drake's Lake instead of Drake's famous storm tossed passage, some of us were a bit disappointed. Well, we soon learned better. For the two day's sail from Grytviken to Stanley in the Falklands, we experienced and weathered a Beaufort scale storm at a level 8. We had gale force winds well over 40 mph and seas topping more than 20 feet. There were very few brave souls on the bridge taking pictures as most of the passengers remained in their cabins. Meals were attended by less than half and even a few of the expedition leaders where hard to find. Dr. Linda was busy visiting those who were finding no relief from medications, and they were given injections to get them through to Stanley. We were informed often of Brian's condition and heard he was grateful to be on board as his ship did not have stabilizers. I felt fine but wondered one night, as I lay in my bed, if the ship might just burst apart- or be crushed by the sea like the Endurance. The hull would crack and moan and groan, and as I was tossed about in my bed, I sometimes wondered if I might just hit the ceiling. In the morning, there were a few brave souls at breakfast, but some pancakes ended up in laps and not in tummies. Three of us played scrabble that afternoon, and it was fun to watch the tiles shift and slide about the board with each swell. We would look at the board and ask, " What kind of word is STREPHKELYTED" ? It didn't matter, though, as we were playing in the Bistro, and we were kept supplied with hot tea, cakes, cookies, and scones!

We finally arrived in the colorful town of Stanley and everyone was happy to be on land for a day. An ambulance was there waiting for Brian, and he was quickly taken " to hospital ". We learned later that he was doing fine. We walked and shopped and ate cheese and tomato toasties and visited a pub which was decorated for Christmas and had an Old Speckled Hen. It is amazing that these islands survived such a war and their British allegiance is felt everywhere you go. These are my friends Maury and Karen with whom I enjoyed the town and much of my journey.

Rescue at Sea in Grytviken

2009-12-14T10:13:00.005-08:00

This is another expedition ship that we had seen as we entered Haakon Bay days earlier. They were just leaving as we were arriving. It is the only other ship I saw on the entire trip. Somewhere on this ship is a 61 year old man named Brian, who would within days, fall during one of their landings, breaking his pelvis in two places. Since his ship was heading onto Antarctica, and ours was headed to the Falklands, where he could receive great medical attention, Brian was transferred via zodiac to the Explorer. The transfer took place at 10:30 in dark and freezing waters. He was lowered by stretcher into the zodiac and taken on shore at Grytviken where we had remained for the transfer after finishing our day touring the site. Since our ship had an open bridge policy, I was able to watch with binoculars and listen to the walkie-talkie communications while they made the transfers. The doctor from his ship and the doctor from ours worked with our expedition leaders during the night. First, Brian was brought on shore at Grytviken where there were x-ray machines placed there during the Falkland's War. The transfer was challenged a bit because there were seventeen elephant seal weaners taking over the landing ramp. It was amazing to watch and listen to the expert handling of the situation and care given to Brian by the crew of the Explorer. At 1:30 AM, Brian was aboard the Explorer, and we began our sail to the Falkland Islands. The next day a beautiful Antarctica calendar was signed by everyone, welcoming Brian aboard and wishing him a speedy recovery.
We thought the drama was over- but we were wrong!!!

Grytviken: Final Burial Place of the Boss

2009-12-14T09:48:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Grytviken. This Norweigian whaling station was established in 1904 and is the final resting place of Ernest Shackleton. It was here that he readied the Endurance for its fated journey. Years later, he set out on one last expedition to Antarctica on the Quest, but soon after arriving at Grytviken, he suffered a major heart attack . His fellow officers were on the way home to England with his body when they were instructed by his wife Emily that he was to be returned to Grytviken and buried in the place he loved best. Shackleton loved Scotch and so we all went to his grave and toasted "The Boss" with some scotch. We were able to visit the incredible museum as well as the church which still holds services. Even though it was a day pouring with rain, we were happy that we were able to spend some time honoring and learning about such a great man. Notice the beautiful new sailboat with an aluminum hull that had come in from the Falklands. I wanted to buy Dennis one, but they weren't selling them in the gift shop.

Stromness Harbour

2009-12-14T08:56:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Stromness Harbour. This is the abandoned whaling station where Shackleton and two of his men arrived after an arduous climb over the mountains and glaciers of South Georgia- hoping to find rescue for their remaining men at Peggoty Cove and Elephant Island. Exhausted and fearing they might be lost, they waited to hear the 7:00AM station whistle, knowing then they had succeeded. The white house was the station manager's house where Shackleton, emaciated, dirty, and wearing tattered clothing, knocked on the door and asked," Do you know me... I am Shackleton." It is said the station manager turned away and cried. It would take another four months and many frustrated attempts to finally rescue his men. In the end, all that had sailed on the ill-fated Endurance survived.We were unable to approach anywhere near the station as it is now dangerous because of falling and wind blown debris. These pictures were taken from a zodiac. Later, we were able to walk in the surrounding areas, but had to be careful of the fur seals which were guarding their pups. Ships arriving later in the season, will most likely not be able to land here because the beaches will be covered with fur seals. There where, however, some friendly elephant seal weaners around to pose for our cameras.

Afternoon at Jason Harbour

2009-12-13T22:02:00.000-08:00

After a rough sail from Moltke Harbor, it was wonderful to touch land at Jason Harbour. The air was moist and soft and the land looked and felt much like Scotland. We had to hop and leap from one tussock pad to another, often finding ourselves stranded by puddles and little lakes. It reminded me of a child's board game- Move ahead two spaces- Oh no! Lose your turn! You must go back three spaces! This is my favorite King penguin that had found a quiet place all by himself and was standing there for the longest time just looking at the sea. I laid down in the grass with my telephoto lens and shared the afternoon with him.The other photo is of the Explorer finally at rest in a safe harbor with a penguin looking on. I found the penguins always to be looking at the ship, and I always wondered what they might be thinking.

This was one of my favorite stops on the journey.

A rough night and morning at sea

2009-12-13T21:42:00.000-08:00

While we had lucked out crossing Drake's Passage- we finally met out match in some very rough seas and the Explorer made for the quieter waters of Moltke Harbor. A few brave souls made a landing here, but most of my shipmates, including me, used this morning to catch our breath and take a well deserved break from more wave riding via zodiacs. The previous night and then again in the afternoon hours, as we sailed to Jason Harbour, we ran into some pretty rough seas and the ship began to really rock and roll. Fewer and fewer people appeared for meals, and while some were able to brave the bridge to get great shots of the waves crashing over the bow, I found that to be a bit too much for my equilibrium. I was able, however, to maintain my balance and my meals sans patch and pills. My room mid-ship offered much comfort, and I actually found the rocking to be soothing at bedtime. These are views of the waves hitting my cabin window. I knew to keep my eyes on the horizon, and so I did through my cabin window, but there was also a George Clooney movie on, so I watched that too. I am not sure which helped me more. I think it probably was George! This is my Penguin pal Percy. He is posing with the ropes that were put up to help us navigate places where there were no hand rails and this is Percy posing with the barf bags that were placed throughout the ship. Our breakfast was served on damped table clothes so the dishes would stay put, and the luncheon buffet was changed to a sit down- I guess we proved to be " Buffet Challenged " in a storm. The buffet dishes were still on the service center but tied over by ropes- it was fun to watch them go up and down and up and down. The waves would sometimes crash into the dining room windows, and then the ship would ride way up and then seem to crash down on the waves making a loud banging sound. It was a bit like a ride at an amusement park. The access doors to all outside decks were locked to keep all us amateur photographers on the ship rather than in the sea. Good Idea!

Cooper Bay: South Georgia

2009-12-13T21:10:00.000-08:00

Our first look at Rockhopper Penguins and more time at Cooper Bay with the Kings and some elephant seals. Just an average zodiac ride-notice surge.

Cooper Bay and Drygalski Fjord: South Georgia

2009-12-13T20:52:00.000-08:00

Cruising through Drygalski Fjord

More Pictures from St. Andrews Bay: South Georgia

2009-12-13T20:36:00.000-08:00

While sitting on the beach and photographing the wildlife, a young fur seal decided to move down the beach and then decided instead to head up the beach in my direction. While there still remained plenty of distance between us ( I am using a 300 telephoto lens) the young seal got a little nervous when he or she saw me and sent out some serious signals warning me to keep away. Notice the teeth and aggression on this little one's face. Notice too how big those two front flippers are- if he or she wants to move, it can be faster than anyone in a parka. I used all my ARF training and remained calm- sending non-aggressive signals right back. The young seal eventually walked away in the opposite direction. This is why when we were on the beach at Stromness- our expedition leaders made a pathway out of the kayaks- just to keep us at a safe distance from these little critters. Here is a happy Oakum that talked mom into giving him some lunch!

Gold Harbor and St Andrews Bay : South Georgia

2009-12-13T20:22:00.000-08:00

This morning we landed at Gold Harbor where we had our first real introduction to the King penguins, the second largest penguin after the Emperor. Oh the Kings! How magnificent. At Gold Harbor there were thousands and thousands of them with their year old chicks. The babes are about ready to begin molting and then head out to sea. Their mother's are beginning to refuse to feed them, encouraging them to move along. Some, however, just aren't getting it and follow mom everywhere. The chicks are sometimes called Wooley penguins because of their wooley appearance, but sailors of old called them the Oakum Boys because they reminded them of the filler material used in caulking their ships and the material used in prison uniforms. At St. Andrews Bay we had our first introduction to the fur seals. The fur seals are much more aggressive than the elephant and crabeater seals. Many were on the beaches guarding their territories, and we learned quickly to give them as much space as possible. They are easily identified by their little ear flaps, and their large front flippers enable them to move faster than a human.

Haakon Bay: Western End of South Georgia

2009-12-12T13:18:00.000-08:00

After two days at sea, we arrived at South Georgia, an overseas territory of the United Kingdom. This island lies 900 miles south-east of the Falkland Islands. Although it is at the same latitude as Cape Horn, it is much colder than South America as it is surrounded by chilly Antarctic waters. Wildlife resides here year round. Captain Leif Skog and our expedition leader, Lisa, guide the ship into Haakon Bay and choose the best place for the zodiacs to begin landing. This is where Peggoty Cove lies, the place where Shackleton and five other men landed the James Caird, a 23 ft boat, after sailing 800 miles from Elephant Island in search of South Georgia and a chance for rescue at the Stromness Whaling Station. Haakon Bay was filled with wildlife: Giant petrels, Antarctic terns, seals etc. Notice the green tussock. After so much time in the white of Antarctica, it was amazing to see green and to walk in Shackleton's footsteps.

Fast Ice off Vega Island

2009-12-12T11:23:00.000-08:00

On the night of November 23rd, the Explorer once again cruised into and remained in fast ice. What a quiet and peaceful night. In the morning, we walked right out on the frozen sea. We were able to walk for miles. There were penguins and crabeater seals who seemed to care less that a huge ship with 140 passengers had joined the neighborhood. Passengers were able to do a true polar plunge, no thermal waters here. I, however, having carefully read the Antarctic Treaty supported the united effort to keep Antarctica beautiful by not appearing in a bathing suit. A group of young people from the Netherlands did the polar plunge with a flair- coming down the gang-plank in pool robes and carrying Mai-Tai's. After a wonderful morning, which included hot chocolate served on the sea, the Explorer backed up and we began our journey to South Georgia. We had hoped to make a close approach at Elephant Island where Shackleton and his men landed after their days at sea. The ice, however, was too thick and our captain felt it was not possible to safely approach. Having just witnessed- during our own voyage- the week- long entrapment of a Russian icebreaker in the Weddell sea, we supported his decision. We headed off to our next destination. We enjoyed a wonderful Thanksgiving day at sea, some time to catch up on picture editing and reading, and attended numerous lectures to prepare us for our arrival on the island of South Georgia.

Which way to the polar plunge?

Other Photographic Emergencies

2009-12-12T10:49:00.000-08:00

Everyday at sea there was the opportunity to see the wonders of nature. We would be notified via the loud speaker that there was another photographic emergency! The good thing is that you never missed a chance to see something amazing. The bad thing was that you could not turn off the PA in your room, so you often missed a planned nap. This Weddell seal had been spotted on an ice floe and soon after there would be a sighting of whales. In this case, it was a pod of about ten Killer whales with a young pup of about three weeks. How they work is to surround and upset the ice floe causing the seal to return to the sea, thus providing their dinner. On this day, the whales became more interested in our ship, and so we saved the life of this particular seal- that day. The greatest sighting of the voyage, however, was the sighting of one, lone, Emperor penguin. This is rare to see as they live much farther south and in a colder climate. Ships can rarely travel south enough to see them. This photo shows the size of the Emperor in terms of scale next to the Adelies.

Brown Bluff and Devil Island

2009-12-12T10:08:00.000-08:00

We spent the afternoon at Brown Bluff, our second continental landing, formed by a volcano; it is named Brown Bluff because of its steep slopes and its brown -to-black hyaloclastite. Devil Island is in the middle of a small bay by of the coast of Vega Island. There we were able to zodiac and spend time with the cormorants and we were able to see Adelie penguins and a large number of crabeater and elephant seals.

Tabular Icebergs in the Weddell Sea

2009-12-12T09:37:00.000-08:00

On Monday, we began sailing into the Weddell Sea. This is where Shackleton and the Endurance became locked in pack ice and the Endurance was eventually crushed by ice, forcing Shackleton and his men to float for months on ice flows until the seas opened, and they could sail on their three small lifeboats to Elephant Island. Mid- morning there was an announcement that there was a photographic emergency on deck. We all grabbed our cameras and scrambled to the bow and for the next few hours the Explorer passed one tabular iceberg after another. The ship moved slowly and silently so we could witness up close and carefully the vastness of these broken glaciers that have been at sea for years.It is difficult in photographs to accurately portray their height and vastness. Some can be the size of states. There was no wind and the sun was shining, so we were able to get many pictures with the reflections of these blue sculpted masterpieces reflected in the sea. It was a morning I will never forget.

Neko Harbor: Landing on the Continent of Antarctica

2009-12-12T08:53:00.000-08:00

After a full day, we cleaned up and all met for the cocktail hour wrap-up which happened daily before dinner. This is where we would see the footage from the divers and the naturalists would share with us all we had seen that day. It is also when we would hear about where we were planning to go the next day. But- by now we had learned that with Captain Skog the plans could always change based on ice and where he felt we might be able to access for the best adventure. At dinner, however, that night we were informed by the captain that after dinner we would be in Neko Harbor and that anyone who wanted to walk on the actual continent of Antarctica would be able to do so. Zodiacs would begin running at 9:00 PM. Since we were in almost 24 hours of daylight-why not? You never saw a dining room clear out so fast. The sky was mauve and baby blue, the waters quiet, the air cool. We hiked up a small glacier where we had a view of the bay. The younger passengers and a few of the braver mature of us chose to slide down the glacier. Staff had brought out black garbage bags to make the ride a little faster. We stayed about two hours, and I made many friends with some fun gentoo penguins. They seemed very interested in what these strange new birds were doing sliding and howling down the hill. I stood for the longest time just breathing in the air and watching the lights in the sky, when one of the expedition leaders came up to me and told me it was time to go. I could have stayed there for hours more. As we walked back to the zodiacs, I asked him if he ever gets used to this beauty- he said no and then he said to me " And you have not even been to where we all love the best . He wouldn't tell me where that would be- I had to just wait for the next day. Around midnight- the Explorer pulled up anchor and headed out into the icy seas! All her passengers crawled into their beds exhausted from another amazing day in the white world.

Port Lockroy: British Base on the Antarctic Peninsula

2009-12-11T16:13:00.000-08:00

After a morning spent return cruising through the Lemaire Channel, we made land at Port Lockroy, the British Research Base on the Antarctic Peninsula. Set up as a base in 1944 to monitor German shipping movements, it is now used for research and is open to visitors. After touring the museum and visiting with the staff, we made zodiac trips across the channel to other landing spots, and while we explored on land, the National Geographic divers made their daily dive into the Antarctic waters, which were a balmy 29 degrees, bringing footage back nightly for our daily wrap-up before dinner. It was amazing to see each night the colorful sea life that exists in these cold waters. While waiting for my zodiac ride, a sheath bill made a dive for my head. I pointed my lens up and began shooting. How I got this shot, I will never know, but it made my photographic day!

Lemaire Channel, Peterman Island, and the Penola Strait

2009-12-11T12:14:00.000-08:00

Saturday, November 21.
Perfect Day- Cold Antarctic weather with a clear sun. Zodiacs left the ship early to film the Explorer sailing through the LeMaire Channel.

This was the most narrow and scenic channel of our voyage. Seven miles long and one mile wide with spectacular peaks and blue icebergs on each side. The only sounds that could be heard as we glided through this winter wonderland was the sound of the camera shutters. We then visited Petermann Island and spent the rest of the day greeting and meeting Adelie and Gentoo penguins. We had time for some kayaking around the icebergs before pulling up anchor and heading for Port Lockroy.

Afternoon Naptime

2009-11-20T19:48:00.000-08:00

These two elephant seals were resting most of the afternoon as we walked among the Adelie penguins. They seemed to almost be posing for our cameras. Notice the little rookery in the background where much nest building and mating was taking place.

Dorian Bay and Modern Explorers

2009-11-20T19:02:00.000-08:00

Friday, November 20th. Double socks, muck boots, long underwear, pants, shirts, parkas, balaclavas, hoods, waterproof mittens, weather proof camera bags, cameras in storm jackets, 28degrees with gusts over 40mph blasting one with crystallized snow. You can hear it crackle and pit against your parka. Welcome to Dorian Bay in the Palmer Archipelago. This is a small bay enclosed by mountain and glacier. Icebergs casting Caribbean blue shadows great your zodiacs as you make your way to land. This is home to two huts, one well-maintained and stocked by the British and a small hut owned by Argentina. It is also home for a colony of Gentoo penguins. As Cherry-Gerrard says,“ All the world loves a penguin…had we half their physical courage none could stand against us. Their little bodies are so full of curiosity that they have no room for fear…”. As penguins go, they are among the least aggressive and are much quieter than the chinstraps. They are easily identified by their orange beak. Many are sitting upon nests made of small pebbles . As you watch them navigate across the ice and snow, they instinctually turn away as each crystallized gust strikes. So do we. It is a rough ride to shore and tough walking as the snow collapses beneath our feet, but how able we are to imagine Amundsen, Scott, and Shackleton sledging and skiing eight hours a day in drastically worse conditions in their quest of the South pole. After lunch, we visited Palmer Station, the U.S. research station here on the peninsula and then took zodiacs to Torgersen Island where we spent time with a nesting Adelie penguin colony and were greeted by a number of Elephant seals. Our weather was now warm and calm, and it was difficult to believe we were in the same world as this morning. After dinner, we were addressed by Mr. Neil Armstrong who spoke with us about the nature of exploration and made comparison between the journeys of Captain Cook and Apollo 11. Most of those who work at Palmer Station were brought over for dinner and to hear Mr. Armstrong speak. It was amazing to see the rapture of the young scientists as they listened to a legend in expedition speak. It is 11:00 P.M. and we are in total daylight and waiting for the engines to signal our departure. Tomorrow we will make our way through the Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island, and Penola Strait. Even more importantly, I will await the Ohio State vs. Michigan score.

Penguins and more penguins

2009-11-19T18:21:00.000-08:00

We are rocking and rolling right now- so here are a few more pictures that I took today. The first is an iceberg that once was more tabular but is now a bit more weathered. The next two are of a chinstrap and a group of chinstraps. Which one do you think thinks he is " king of the hill"? Watching these creatures from only a few feet away was quite an experience. How very trusting and innocent they are. How we can protect this part of the world is something I hope I learn more about tomorrow.

We Have Penguins!

2009-11-19T17:40:00.000-08:00

Thursday, November 19th. Doing my best to keep up the blog but must limit myself to just two pictures a day- as the technology at this end of the earth seems to be a bit overwhelmed . As Shackleton would have said, we are here in the Weird White World. Yesterday at 4:00 PM, we passed through the Antarctic Convergence. Colder winds for a bit and some fog but still easy seas and no swells during the day. We have covered over 600 miles thanks to the unusual easterly winds, and so this morning were able to make land at Baily Head in the Shetland Islands a day earlier than expected. How fortunate for us as landings are possible on these rough shores only about 30% of the time. Warm weather, sun, and 40,000 chinstrap penguins greeted us. If you sat quietly they came up to you with the most curious expressions. We watched as they paraded back and forth to the open waters and as the males brought back the perfect pebble for the family nest. This afternoon, the ship was able to make way into fast ice at Deception Island and as she pushed through, we could hear the ice crushing against the hull of the ship. After an ice stability check, we were all able to disembark and walk upon the frozen sea. One can imagine what it must have been like for Shackleton and his men to float upon an ice flow in this Southern Ocean and hope to make landfall at some point. We spent an hour walking about and were served hot chocolate with schnapps. Later, a few brave souls took the Polar Plunge at Whaler’s Bay, an abandoned whaling station. As they did, a small group of Adelie penguins observed the bizarre behavior of this strange species. Tonight, we are experiencing a more active sea, but still enjoyed dinner as we watched blue tabular icebergs float by. We did not need to attach the seat belts that hang from the bottom of each chair in the dining room; however, but these are still early days. It is 10:00P.M. and still light. Tomorrow we are off to Dorian Bay and then have been invited to visit Palmer Station, the U.S. research station located in Arthur Harbor. As they extend only twelve invitations a year, we are feeling quite honored. Then off to see the Adelies at Torgensen Island. Hope you enjoy meeting one little chinstrap and viewing the Explorer in fast ice.

Traveling Through Drake's Passage

2009-11-18T06:17:00.000-08:00

Hi All,

Just want to say Hi and let you know we are at the moment traveling through Drake's Passage which is more like Drake's Lake today. Calm, blue and there a many birds flying around our ship."
All here is well. Amazing journey so far- more than I could ever have imagined. I came on this journey to follow in the footpaths of the amazing explorers: Amundsen, Scott, and the Boss, Shackleton. How appropriate it was that I should have Neil Armstrong at my table at the Welcome dinner.

Many people on this ship are world travelers and some have visited all seven continents- some are on their 3rd or 4th trip to Antarctica. Many have taken me under their wings as the " Newbie".

Please be patient with the blog. I will try to upload pictures at some time- but much here, like Mother Nature, is out of my hands.